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I’ve really enjoyed seeing the elephants you’ve crocheted using the English translation that I posted last month!  The construction of these elephants is really ingenious, and I’m glad to hear that many of you have been challenged and also impressed by its design!

I wanted to crochet something special for the daughters of our good friends- when one of them said that elephants were her favourite animal, I knew which pattern to turn to!  I decided to make her the same pink elephant with blue floral lining that I made for Myla.  I did not have enough “Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice" yarn left, so I turned to "Loops & Threads Impeccable Solids in Soft Rose" as I happened to have a full skein in my stash.  

Vanna’s Choice is labeled as a worsted weight yarn (category 4 medium, 10 ply) and Impeccable Solids is also labeled as a worsted weight yarn (category 4 medium, 10 ply).  However, as people who work a lot with yarn know, even though yarns may be given the same level or weight class, they can actually be quite different.  As you can see in the pictures above, the pink elephant crocheted using “Loops & Threads Impeccable Solids” (on the right side of both photos) turned out larger than the “Vanna’s Choice” elephant even though I used the same size crochet hook!

Even within the category of “worsted weight yarn”, there is a wide range, and Planet June did a very informative blog post and comparison that can be found HERE.  She classified different worsted weight yarns as light worsted, worsted or heavy worsted.  Thus, if you want your amigurumi to be a little bit bigger, you could always try out different yarns!  Have you noticed in your experience that some worsted weight yarn is thicker than others?  What are your favourite worsted weight yarns to work with?  If you want to crochet your own elephants, check out my step-by-step blog post HERE and the free English translation HERE!  

Pattern: Pony

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Celebrate the “Year of the Horse" this Chinese New Year with this sweet little Pony, complete with a whimsical, puffy mane and tail!  Make her in a rainbow of colours for all the horse, unicorn and pony-lovers in your life and those born in the Year of the Horse!  

Materials:

  • white yarn (I used “Patons Canadiana in White”) and coral yarn (I used “Loops & Threads Impeccable in Rouge”)
  • 2.00 mm crochet hook 
  • yarn needle
  • fiberfill
  • 12 mm safety eyes
  • black embroidery floss

Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds).  ***PLEASE follow along with my blog post HERE to see step-by-step photos.

HEAD

Using white yarn,

R1: 5 sc in Magic Ring (5 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around (10 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 5 times (15 sts)

R4: Sc 15

R5: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 5 times (20 sts)

R6: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 5 times (25 sts)

R7: Sc 25

R8: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 5 times (30 sts)

R9-10: Sc 30

R11: *Sc 5, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 5 times (35 sts)

R12-17: Sc 35

R18: *Sc 5, dec 1*, rep 5 times (30 sts)

R19: Sc 30

R20: *Sc 4, dec 1*, rep 5 times (25 sts)

Add safety eyes between Rows 9 and 10 below midline for doe-eyed effect (see more photos here).  Embroider eyelashes with black embroidery floss.  Begin stuffing head.  Ensure that the “snout/nose” is at the beginning where the magic circle is and the back of the head will be where you do your decreases, fasten off and weave in end over the next couple of rounds.

R21: *Sc 3, dec 1*, rep 5 times (20 sts)

R22: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 5 times (15 sts)

R23: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 5 times (10 sts)

Finish stuffing head.

R24: *Dec 1*, rep 5 times (5 sts)

Fasten off and weave in end.  

MANE (divided into 5 parts from front of head to back of head)

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Using coral yarn for all the parts

Mane Part 1 (curled tip):

R1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4 sts)

R2: Sc 4

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 2 times (6 sts)

R4: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 3 times (9 sts)

R5: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 3 times (12 sts)

R6: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18 sts)

R7-8: Sc 18

Fasten off and leave long end for attaching.

Mane Part 2:

R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *Sc 3, dec 1*, rep 6 times (24 sts)

R7: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times (18 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for attaching.

Mane Part 3:

Chain 8 (this is the foundation chain)

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 7 in back loops of foundation chain.  Turn and Sc 7 in front loops of the foundation chain [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain].  (14 sts)

R2: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 7 times. (21 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 7 times. (14 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for attaching.

Mane Part 4:

Chain 6 (this is the foundation chain)

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 5 in back loops of foundation chain.  Turn and Sc 5 in front loops of the foundation chain [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain].  (10 sts)

R2: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 5 times. (15 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 5 times. (10 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for attaching.

Mane Part 5: 

Chain 4 (this is the foundation chain)

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 3 in back loops of foundation chain.  Turn and Sc 3 in front loops of the foundation chain [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain].  (6 sts)

R2: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 3 times. (9 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 3 times. (6 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for attaching.

Arrange Mane Parts 1-5 together and attach each part to the next using long ends of yarn left.  Once all the parts have been attached together, drape the whole piece across Pony’s head from front to back.  Sew Mane Part 1 into place.  Secure rest of mane onto head (note that it’s only necessary to sew portions of the mane to the head [the middle parts where each piece is joined to the next] as you don’t need to sew the whole way around each piece (i.e. you don’t have to attach the sides).  No need to stuff the mane.  Hide yarn ends into mane. PLEASE see step-by-step blog post HERE for more detailed pictures.

EARS (make 2)

Using white yarn, 

R1: 5 sc in Magic Ring (5 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around (10 sts)

R3-4: Sc 10

R5: *Sc 3, dec 1*, rep 2 times (8 sts)

R6: Sc 8

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Sew onto head on either side of mane between Mane Parts 2 and 3.  

BODY

Using white yarn,

Chain 4 (this is the foundation chain)

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 3 in back loops of foundation chain.  Turn and Sc 3 in front loops of the foundation chain [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain].  (6 sts)

R2: 2 sc in next sc, Sc 1, *2 sc in next sc*, rep 2 times, Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc (10 sts)

R3: Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 1 (14 sts)

R4: Sc 14

Next, we will be shaping the belly:

R5: *2 sc in next sc*, rep 3 times, Sc 11 (17 sts)

R6: Sc 1, *2 sc in next sc*, rep 3 times, Sc 13 (20 sts)

R7-8: Sc 20

R9: *Sc 3, dec 1*, rep 4 times (16 sts)

R10-11: Sc 16

Next, we will be shaping the neck so it curves upwards:

R12-14: Sl stitch across next 2 stitches.  Hdc 8.  Sl stitch across next 6 sts (16 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Stuff body and attach onto head.

LEGS

Note: We will be making 2 back legs and 2 front legs.  The only difference between the back legs and the front legs are Rounds 9-11 when we begin to curve the legs.  They are different so that the colour change from coral to white is hidden from view when attaching to the body.

BACK LEGS (make 2)

Each back leg consists of the hoof (coral yarn) and the upper leg (white).

Using coral yarn,

Chain 4 (this is the foundation chain)

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 3 in back loops of foundation chain.  Turn and Sc 3 in front loops of the foundation chain [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain].  (6 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sts)

R3: In back loops only, Sc 12.

R4: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 3 times (9 sts)

R5: Sc 9

Begin stuffing hoof.  Switch to white yarn,

R6: Sc 9.

R7-8: Sc 9.

We will begin to curve the leg.  Continue stuffing along the way.

R9: Dec 1, Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 3 (9 sts)

R10: Dec 1, Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 3 (9 sts)

R11: Dec 2, Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 3 (8 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Finish stuffing back leg.  Sew open ends together.  Attach to body.

FRONT LEGS (make 2)

Each front leg consists of the hoof (coral yarn) and the upper leg (white).

Using coral yarn,

Chain 4 (this is the foundation chain)

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 3 in back loops of foundation chain.  Turn and Sc 3 in front loops of the foundation chain [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain].  (6 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sts)

R3: In back loops only, Sc 12.

R4: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 3 times (9 sts)

R5: Sc 9

Begin stuffing hoof.  Switch to white yarn,

R6: Sc 9.

R7-8: Sc 9.

We will begin to curve the leg.  Continue stuffing along the way.

R9: 2 sc in next sc, Sc 3, Dec 1, Sc 3 (9 sts) 

R10: 2 sc in next sc, Sc 3, Dec 1, Sc 3 (9 sts) 

R11: 2 sc in next sc, Sc 3, Dec 2, Sc 1 (8 sts) 

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Finish stuffing front leg.  Sew open ends together.  Attach to body.

TAIL

Using coral yarn,

R1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4 sts)

R2: Sc 4

R3: *2 sc in next sc*, rep twice.  Sc 2.  (6 sts)

R4: Sc 1, *2 sc in next sc*, rep 4 times, Sc 1.  (10 sts)

R5: Sc 3, * 2 sc in next sc*, rep 4 times.  Sc 3.  (14 sts)

R6: *Dec 1*, rep 7 times. (7 sts)

R7: Sc 2, Dec 2, Sc 1 (5 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  No need to stuff tail.  Attach to end of body.

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We hope you enjoy working through this pattern and crocheting these unique shapes to create your own little Pony!  We would love to see your finished products- please post them on my Facebook page, Twitter, Instagram (use the hashtag #AllAboutAmi so everyone can see them too!) or e-mail me (all_about_ami@hotmail.com)!  Happy Chinese New Year!

This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (January 2014). Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Crochet Toddler Loop Boots with Suede Sole

One of the things I love about my passion for crochet is being able to make beautiful, unique items for my little girl that cannot be purchased in stores and are handcrafted with a lot of love!  For Myla’s 1st birthday, she was gifted with a pair of Padraig boots (see here if you’ve never seen them before) from some dear friends: these boots were crocheted with New Zealand wool, lined with sheepskin and had leather soles!  Myla wore them for the next couple of months and they were great as they were warm and provided great grip as she learned how to walk around.  You can see Myla wearing them in this photo I posted to Instagram below (don’t you love our matching parkas?)!  As soon as Ryan and I laid eyes on these Padraigs, we knew we wanted to try and crochet Myla a pair of boots with a leather or suede sole that would be functional for our walking toddler (see my previous baby boots here).  

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As I was looking up patterns on different sites, I came across “Two Girls Patterns" on Etsy and absolutely fell in love with their designs!  Kris and Lorin have so many patterns for cute and modern slippers, boots and hats, and I thought their "Furrylicious/Little Diva Boots" in particular really stood out!  These boots are crocheted using the loop stitch which gives a beautiful and unique texture to the boots.  I was very excited to get my hands on the pattern, and if you visit their Etsy store, you will see it being sold for $5.50 USD (you get a discount if you buy multiple patterns at the same time, and the pattern is also available for babies, toddlers, and even adults!).  I knew it would be a great pattern because their store has rave reviews with everyone saying that their patterns are easy to follow and detailed with clear pictures!

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The toddler version includes sizes 4-9 (you get all the sizes when you purchase the pattern), and I opted for a size 4 for Myla.  Their pattern very clearly states all the materials needed, instructions on how to work the loop stitch and some notes that are very important to read before starting the project.  For example, this boot is made by holding two strands of yarn at the same time!  I started by crocheting the sole using a tan colour.  

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Next, I started crocheting the upper shoe with a white yarn (I used “Patons Canadiana” in “Winter White”).

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Then the fun part began: the loop stitches!  It was my first time doing the loop stitch, and I LOVED doing it!  See this great tutorial and video that Fresh Stitches put together HERE that details how to do the loop stitch. 

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The loops are formed by wrapping the yarn around your finger!   It’s important to draw both strands of the looped yarn through the stitch as just drawing through one strand will not work.  For some reason when I began crocheting the loop stitches, I was doing them incorrectly by swinging my hook in the wrong direction- the loops seemed okay at first but as I continued moving on, the loops kept pulling inwards toward the centre of the boot and thus getting smaller.  Thankfully, I noticed my mistake, undid my work, examined the instructions carefully again and continued onwards.  Once I started doing the loop stitch correctly, they looked great!  I need to figure out how to incorporate loop stitches in future projects as the results look so textured and beautiful!

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Next, the upper boot is worked up as you add more and more loop stitches!  I really love the look of the overlapping and cascading loops! 

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The boots are designed so that buttons can be sewn on one edge while there are button holes on the opposing and overlapping edge.  The buttons give such a cute look to the boots!

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Finally, my loop boots were complete!  I was so happy with how they turned out, and the pattern was very easy to follow and understand.  I love how Kris and Lorin laid out the directions very clearly, and they always offer support for their patterns if you need it and are more than happy to help :)  These boots are very well-designed and I really admire designers who can think out patterns such as these (I myself find designing boots and shoes daunting, especially since the shape and sizing is so important!).  This pattern is well worth the money, particularly since it includes the pattern for so many sizes…I can keep crocheting boots for Myla until she reaches size 9!

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Here are Myla’s boots from the bottom!  We let Myla wear them on carpeted surfaces such as our church sanctuary, but she would be slipping and sliding all over the place if we let her wear them on a hardwood or tile floor.  Thus, I looked up many tutorials, videos and posts about how to make crocheted slippers non-slip.  Moogly has a great post on “7 Great Ways to Make Slippers Non-Slip”- some of these ways include adding fabric paint or silicone sealant.  One method that I was particularly interested in was using a rubber spray called “Plasti Dip” which would apparently make the sole rubbery (see video HERE).  [UPDATE: I tried using “Plasti Dip” on another pair of boots and it worked very well- see the full blog post HERE!]

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However, we really wanted to try using leather/suede for the soles as we loved the luxurious and very functional look of Myla’s Padraigs.  And so, we purchased some scrap suede and excitedly began Myla’s Loop Boots, version 2.0!  I crocheted a sole using some scrap yarn following the pattern for a size 4.5 boot so that Myla would have a little more room to grow into them.  We then traced the sole onto the suede and made tick marks at every stitch with a pen so that we knew where to add holes (e.g. if you have 42 stitches in the last round of the sole, you should have 42 tick marks around the suede!).  We then cut out the suede sole and punctured the holes around with a utility knife.

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Here is a more detailed picture showing how we measured the suede sole.  We knew we had to account for the fact that the stitches crocheted into the suede would pull upwards so we cut the suede sole a little bit bigger than the actual size of the crocheted sole.  The inner edge is the actual size of the crocheted sole, and we added 0.5 cm all around for our suede sole.  The slits were made close to the inner edge.  It was somewhat difficult wiggling my crochet hook into the slits when crocheting around but it was definitely possible and I was so excited to start the upper boot!

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 We ended up using the same white Patons yarn as we loved how it looked (Sidenote: After multiple wears, Myla’s boots have pilled and fuzzed up a bit.  You could experiment with different yarns in case you don’t want them to fuzz up as much!).  In the end, I was able to crochet two pairs of loop boots with two skeins of the white yarn!  After completing the first round of the upper shoe, this is what we had!  We loved how it was looking already :)

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You could add some faux fur or fur to the bottom of the boot for some added warmth and comfort!  We glued the fur to the suede and then I continued crocheting the upper shoe.

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After following the exact same pattern from here on in, these were our finished boots!  We decided to go for some pretty gold buttons for this pair!  Aren’t they beautiful?

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Here is a picture showing the difference between the crocheted yarn sole and the suede sole!

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I was incredibly excited to have Myla try them on and walk around our hardwood floor!  Much to my delight, she walked around with no problem at all….no slipping or sliding as the suede sole provided her with plenty of grip!

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She was pretty happy to wear them too!  I love her sweet smile :)

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The shaggy, loopy look of the boots are absolutely adorable!  She always gets compliments whenever she wears them, and I can’t help but smile when people ask where I bought them and I get to say that I made them :)  I never would have imagined that I would be able to crochet my daughter such functional, luxurious, and stylish boots a few years ago, and it’s amazing having her wear something I crocheted for her with so much love!

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We used to take monthly family photoshoots up until Myla turned 1, so it was interesting trying to plan this shoot since Myla can walk so well now!  Gone are the non-mobile days when she would stay wherever we plopped her down!  And so, we did some of our favourite activities, like playing with bubbles!

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We also did some reading (love the beautiful “Little Miss Austen” books)!

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And some fun puzzles :)

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If you’re interested in the beautiful prints that we’re wearing, check out Vonbon, a children’s line based in Vancouver, Canada.  They specialize in organic cotton items (e.g. cowls, leggings, blankets, hats, bib bandanas, and headbands) that are all designed and handmade in Canada with gorgeous, sophisticated colour palettes.  I’ve had the pleasure of connecting with Vonbon’s creator Jen (who started the company with her sister Kristin) and it’s been wonderful getting to know another handmade artisan who is so passionate about her craft and what she does!

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[On MylaPolkadoto shirt: H&M, Gray Antler Leggings & Blush Triangle Infinity Cowl: Vonbon.  On me: Cape: Aritzia, Leggings: American Eagle Outfitters, Gray Antler Cowl: Vonbon]

We had to include this hilarious picture of Myla posing by the wall as I was blowing bubbles- she is a born model, haha :)  Myla photobombed our last photoshoot for the “Cabled Wrist Warmers" but this time she had the whole stage to herself!

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 I hope you enjoyed reading about our adventures in making these boots and also learned about some options on how to make your own crocheted slippers or boots non-slip by adding a suede sole!  I really enjoyed crocheting them and am so delighted with how they turned out!  You can purchase the toddler pattern for these loop boots HERE.  

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Kris and Lorin of “Two Girls Patterns" have partnered with me to offer a GIVEAWAY [now CLOSED- congrats “Pinkrebunny”!]!  One of my readers will win a FREE pattern from their lovely shop!  There are two ways to enter: please visit their Etsy store HERE and browse through their patterns.  Then, leave a comment below on my blog and/or on my Facebook page here (must be a follower of “All About Ami”) stating which pattern you would most like to win!  I’d love to hear what you think about our boots too and if you’ve tried making your crocheted footwear non-slip!  This contest is open worldwide and will close on Sunday, January 26th at 8 PM, MST.  If you are under 18, please ask your parents’ permission before entering.  Also, in case anyone is interested, Kris and Lorin allow people to sell their finished products made from their patterns as long as credit for the original design is given to them in the listing!  If you are interested in purchasing completed loop boots for your own child or as gifts, you can check Etsy as I’ve seen them being sold there!  Thank you for reading, and happy browsing and crocheting!

Pattern: the Fluff Bears

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These little fluff bears are warm, fuzzy, and oh so sweet!  Coco and Mochi are made of a special novelty yarn called eyelash yarn that is more difficult to work with than your typical acrylic or cotton yarn, so embark on this project if you are up for a challenge!  Even though the individual stitches are difficult to see when working with eyelash yarn, this also means that it is more forgiving since it is harder to see mistakes!

These teddies would make wonderful gifts this winter, and why not personalize them by having them hold or wear different objects (e.g. guitar, book, hat, ballerina tutu) based on your interests or the interests of the person you are gifting them to! 

Materials:

  • Eyelash yarn: (1) for Mochi: white bulky (5) yarn [I used Patons Allure in “Diamond”]; (2) for Coco: beige medium (4) yarn [I used Loops & Threads Luxurious Fur in “Lynx”]
  • Beige lightweight (3) mercerized cotton yarn [I used Patons Grace in “Natural”]
  • Embroidery floss: brown for Mochi’s nose, light pink for Coco’s nose, deep pink for Mochi’s yarn ball and Coco’s scarf
  • 2.00 mm and 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • Yarn needle
  • Fiberfill
  • 9 mm safety eyes
  • Beige felt for noses
  • Glue gun
  • Wire (for crochet hook) and scrapbook flower

Important Notes:

  • I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds).  Feel free to follow along with my blog post HERE to see step-by-step photos.
  • I used a 3.5 mm crochet hook when working with the eyelash yarn and a 2.00 mm crochet hook when working with the lightweight yarn and embroidery floss (for Coco’s scarf).
  • When working with the eyelash yarn, be sure that the “wrong side" is facing outwards as it is fluffier than the "right side" (read about "The Right Side of Amigurumi" HERE).

MOCHI [male bear made of bulky yarn]

HEAD

Using white bulky (5) yarn,

R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)

R4-7: Sc 18

Place safety eyes and begin stuffing head.

R8: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)

Finish stuffing head.

R9: *Dec 1*, rep 6 times. (6 sts)

Fasten off and weave in end.  Cut circle out of beige felt and embroider nose using brown embroidery floss.  Glue onto head.

BODY

Using white bulky (5) yarn,

R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)

R2-4: Sc 6 (6 sts)

Stuff firmly.  Sew open end together.  Sew body to head.

EARS (make 2)

Using beige lightweight (3) mercerized cotton,

R1: 3 sc in magic ring. (3 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (6 sts)

R3: Sc 6 (6 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Sew open end together.  Sew ontop of head.  

ARMS (make 2)

Using beige lightweight (3) mercerized cotton,

R1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 sts)

R2-7: Sc 4. (4 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Attach to body.

LEGS (make 2)

Using beige lightweight (3) mercerized cotton,

R1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 sts)

R2-5: Sc 4. (4 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Attach to body.

Mochi’s Details: 

  • Using embroidery floss, tie several knots to form base of yarn ball.  Continue wrapping embroidery floss around base of knots, adding glue from glue gun periodically to help floss stay in place.  Once desired size is achieved, cut off.
  • Shape wire to form crochet hook (I used wire that is used to hang our ornaments to our Christmas tree).

COCO [female bear made of medium yarn]

HEAD

Using beige medium (4) yarn,

R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times. (18 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5-6: Sc 24

R7: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times (18 sts)

R8-12: Sc 18

Place safety eyes and begin stuffing head.

R13: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 6 times. (12 sts)

Finish stuffing head.

R14: *Dec 1*, rep 6 times. (6 sts)

Fasten off and weave in end.  Cut circle out of beige felt and embroider nose using pink embroidery floss.  Glue onto head.

BODY

Using beige medium (4) yarn,

R1: 6 sc in magic ring. (6 sts)

R2-9: Sc 6 (6 sts)

Stuff firmly.  Sew open end together.  Sew body to head.

EARS (make 2)

Using beige lightweight (3) mercerized cotton,

R1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around. (8 sts)

R3-4: Sc 8 (8 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Sew open end together.  Sew ontop of head.  

ARMS (make 2)

Using beige lightweight (3) mercerized cotton,

R1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 sts)

R2-7: Sc 4. (4 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Attach to body.

LEGS (make 2)

Using beige lightweight (3) mercerized cotton,

R1: 4 sc in magic ring. (4 sts)

R2-5: Sc 4. (4 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Attach to body.

Coco’s Scarf 

Using deep pink embroidery floss,

Chain 31

R1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each chain across (30 sc)

R2-3: Ch 1.  Turn.  Sc in second chain from hook and in each st across. (30 sts)

Fasten off.  Add fringe to edges of scarf (see photos here or video here).  Trim fringe to desired length.  Tie scarf around Coco.  Place flower or other object on Coco’s hand for her to hold :)

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Now your sweet teddies are complete and ready to be snuggled :)  I would love to see your finished fluff bears!  You can e-mail your pics to me at all_about_ami@hotmail.com, upload them to my Facebook page, Tweet me, or tag me on Instagram (@AllAboutAmi).  

***P.S.  If you haven’t done so already, please help vote for me in the "Made in Blog" Awards HERE with just one click!  I appreciate your support- thank you in advance!***

This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie of All About Ami (November 2013).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Pattern: Cotton from “Oblivion Island”

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Make your own Cotton the sheep/lamb from “Oblivion Island”, Haruka’s brave, loyal and sweet cherished stuffie!

Materials:

  • super bulky white fluffy yarn (I used “Loops & Threads Country Loom Baby” in “White”; medium beige yarn (I used “Bernat Handicrafter Cotton” in “Off White”); brown yarn (for eyes, nose and mouth); I used 1.5 skeins of the super bulky white fluffy yarn and 1.5 skeins of the medium beige yarn
  • 3.5 mm crochet hook
  • yarn needle
  • fiberfill
  • white felt (for tag)
  • two wooden buttons (for eyes)
  • brown, yellow, red, green and blue embroidery floss (for scar)

Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds). 

***PLEASE follow along with my step-by-step blog post HERE to better understand this written pattern and to visually see how to connect the parts with all my photos! 

***IMPORTANT NOTE: There is technically a “right” and “wrong” side of crochet when working in the round.  Read about this in my blog post HERE.  When working with the beige yarn, ensure the right side is facing outwards.  When working with the white fluffy yarn, ensure the wrong side is facing outwards as this is the fluffier side (read about this HERE). 

FACE

Using beige yarn,

Chain 10

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 8 and 3 sc in next ch.  Turn and Sc 8, 3 sc in next ch [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain].  (22 sts)

R2: Sc 9, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 10, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 1 (24 sts)

R3: *Sc 5, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 4 times. (28 sts)

R4: *Sc 6, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 4 times (32 sts)

R5: *Sc 7, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 4 times (36 sts)

R6: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 9 times (45 sts)

R7: *Sc 4, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 9 times (54 sts)

R8-9: Sc 54

R10: *Sc 8, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (60 sts)

R11: Sc 60

R12: *Sc 5, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 10 times (70 sts)

Fasten off.

HEAD

Using white fluffy yarn,

R1: Position beige face so that the ‘right’ side is facing you.  Pick up 60 stitches between Rounds 10 and 11 of face working clockwise (this will ensure that the ‘wrong’ side or ‘fluffier’ side of the white yarn will be facing outwards).  [Note: when following my step-by-step blog post HERE, I worked in the incorrect direction for the first round, so disregard the photos for this part.]  To see the technique of picking up stitches, watch this video here.

R2: Front post single crochet 60. [See how to front post single crochet HERE.]

R3: *Sc 9, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (66 sts)

R4: *Sc 10, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (72 sts)

R5-8: Sc 72

R9: *Sc 10, dec 1*, rep 6 times (66 sts)

R10: *Sc 9, dec 1*, rep 6 times (60 sts)

R11: Sc 60

R12: *Sc 8, dec 1*, rep 6 times (54 sts)

R13: *Sc 7, dec 1*, rep 6 times (48 sts)

R14-15: Sc 48

R16: *Sc 6, dec 1*, rep 6 times (42 sts)

R17: Sc 42

Begin stuffing head.  Sew on wooden eyes, nose and mouth with brown yarn.  Top line of nose/mouth can be embroidered right ontop of initial series of chain stitches of beige face.  Optional: Add cardboard piece to muzzle for more definition.  Reference picture here.] 

R18: *Sc 5, dec 1*, rep 6 times (36 sts)

R19: *Sc 4, dec 1*, rep 6 times (30 sts)

R20: *Sc 3, dec 1*, rep 6 times (24 sts)

R21: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times (18 sts)

Finish stuffing head.

R22: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 6 times (12 sts)

Fasten off and weave in end.   Note: if hole is still large (depending on the yarn you use), do R23: *Dec 1*, rep 6 times (6 sts) and then fasten off.

EARS (make 2)

R1: 7 sc in Magic Ring (7 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around (14 sts)

R3: *Sc 6, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 2 times (16 sts)

R4-7: Sc 16

R8: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 4 times (12 sts)

R9: *Sc 4, dec 1*, rep 2 times (10 sts)

R10: *Sc 3, dec 1*, rep 2 times (8 sts)

R11: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 2 times (6 sts)

R12: Sc 6

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Sew onto head.

BODY

Using white fluffy yarn,

Chain 10

R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 8 and 3 sc in next ch.  Turn and Sc 8, 3 sc in next ch [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain].  (22 sts)

R2: Sc 9, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 10, 2 sc in next sc, Sc 1 (24 sts)

R3: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 8 times. (32 sts)

R4: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 8 times (40 sts)

R5-12: Sc 40

R13: *Sc 6, dec 1*, rep 5 times (35 sts)

R14-18: Sc 35

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Embroider scar onto body using various colours of embroidery floss.  Stuff body and attach to head.

LEGS (make 2)

R1: 6 sc in Magic Ring (6 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around (12 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: In back loops only, Sc 24. 

R6-9: Sc 24

R10: *Sc 2, dec 1*, rep 6 times (18 sts)

R11-14: Sc 18

R15: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 3 times.  Sc 9.  (15 sts)

R16: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 2 times.  Sc 9.  (13 sts)

R17: Sc 1, dec 1, Sc 9 (12 sts)

R18: Sc 1, dec 1, Sc 8 (11 sts)

R19: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 3 times.  Dec 1.  (7 sts)

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Stuff and attach to body.    Reference picture found in step-by-step blog post HERE.  [Optional: Add circular piece of hard paper/cardboard before stuffing to make the bottom of the legs flat.]

ARMS (make 2)

R1: 4 sc in Magic Ring (4 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around (8 sts)

R3: *Sc 1, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 4 times (12 sts)

R4: *Sc 2, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 4 times (16 sts)

R5: *Sc 3, 2 sc in next sc*, rep 4 times (20 sts)

R6: In back loops only, Sc 20. 

R7-14: Sc 20

R15: *Sc 1, dec 1*, rep 4 times.  Sc 8 (16 sts)

R16-17: Sc 16

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Stuff and attach to body. [Optional: Add circular piece of hard paper/cardboard before stuffing to make the bottom of the arms flat.] 

TAIL

R1: 7 sc in Magic Ring (7 sts)

R2: 2 sc in each sc around (14 sts)

R3-6: Sc 14

Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Sew onto body.

TAG

Cut rectangular piece of white felt.  Sew middle of rectangle onto body.  Fold piece and sew ends together.  Embroider logo on tag connecting both sides together.

Now you’ve made your own life-size Cotton, a new fluffy friend who is so soft and perfect for hugs and snuggles! 

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As always, don’t forget to send me photos of your work as I LOVE to see how your projects turn out!  Find me on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram (@AllAboutAmi) or e-mail me (all_about_ami@hotmail.com) your pics!

Cotton from “Oblivion Island: Haruka and the Magic Mirror” is copyright of Production I.G.  This pattern is copyright of Stephanie of All About Ami (April 2013).  Please do not claim this pattern as your own.  If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site.  You may keep a copy for your own personal use but you may not sell or distribute it, or sell items made from this pattern.

Additional note: The very talented Sarah of “Repeat Crafter Me" made this adorable lamb hat and has posted the pattern for free on her blog!   We just so happened to use the exact same white fluffy yarn too ("Loops & Threads’ Country Baby Loom”), so you can use up your extra yarn to make this sweet project!  You can check it out HERE!  Now you can make Cotton AND a matching baby lamb hat :)

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How to Read Amigurumi Patterns

I have been receiving some e-mails recently from people asking how to read amigurumi patterns.  I always assumed it was straight forward enough, but I often forget what it was like when I first started crocheting.  Trying to interpret patterns can seem like trying to understand a foreign language with all the symbols and abbreviations!  And so, I thought I would take the time to explicitly and clearly describe how to read amigurumi crochet patterns as I find it very exciting that people are getting inspired to learn how to crochet after seeing my amigurumi.  I want to make the learning process as easy as possible so everyone can make their own stuffies!

Please reference my “Amigurumi for Beginners" blog post to see videos on how to do the basic stitches as well as materials you will need to make your own amigurumi.  Here is a chart showing common abbreviations that you will find in some of my crochet patterns (see more extensive list here):

Next, I will go through one of my patterns (e.g. Teddy Ornaments) and explain what the instructions mean, row by row. 

TranslationWork six single crochets in a magic ring.  The “R” stands for “Round” because we are crocheting in the round in a continuous spiral (could also be denoted by “Rnd”).  The “R” could also stand for “Row” (when working in rows, you usually turn your work at the end of each row and work back across the top of the previous row for a square or rectangle).  The number in brackets at the end shows you how many stitches you should have completed during that round.  I always count how many stitches I’ve completed to double-check my work compared to the pattern to ensure I haven’t skipped a stitch or accidentally done one too many.  [Note: in my earlier patterns, Round 1 often looked like this: “R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in second ch from hook. (6 sts)”- this is interchangeable with the R1 above as I was not using the Magic Circle back then.]  See how to do the Magic Circle here.

[Note: Please IGNORE the number of stitches in each round and the number of rounds in these photos as they are not accurate.  I will be using the pictures for reference to show how many single crochets should be worked into each stitch.]

Translation: Work two single crochets in each single crochet around.  Since you are crocheting two stitches in each stitch around, you are doubling the stitch count (from 6 to 12) so that your circle expands outwards.  Patterns that say “inc in next st all round" mean the same thing.   

Translation: Work one single crochet in the next stitch.  Then work two single crochets in the following stitch.  Repeat the pattern in asterisks 6 times. 

Translation: Work two single crochets in the next two stitches (one in each).  Then work two single crochets in the following stitch.  Repeat the pattern in asterisks 6 times. 

Translation: Work three single crochets in the next three stitches (one in each).  Then work two single crochets in the following stitch.  Repeat the pattern in asterisks 6 times. 

You keep following this general pattern for the rest of the rows as your ball expands outwards (e.g. Rows 6-8 in the Teddy Ornaments pattern), doing one single crochet in each stitch and then doing two single crochets in the next stitch every once in a while.  Eventually, the ball will need to keep its shape for the middle part without expanding or decreasing, and it will look like this in the pattern:

Translation: Work one single crochet in each stitch all around.  As you can see, there is no increasing or decreasing and no asterisks.

You keep doing one single crochet in each stitch all around for a number of rows (R9-20 in the Teddy Ornaments pattern), maintaining the same number of stitches in each row until it is time to decrease and close up our ball (in this case, 48 stitches).

Translation: Work six single crochets in the next six stitches (one in each).  Then decrease over the next two stitches.  Repeat the pattern in asterisks 6 times.  I highly recommend doing the “Invisible Decrease" to ensure that there are no holes or bumps in your amigurumi.  Check out my blog post here to see how to do “The Invisible Decrease”.

Translation: Work five single crochets in the next five stitches (one in each).  Then decrease over the next two stitches.  Repeat the pattern in asterisks 6 times. 

You keep decreasing the number of stitches row by row by doing a number of single crochets, and then doing an invisible decrease every so often.  Eventually, your ball will close up.  Along the way, you will add safety eyes, perhaps embroider a nose or a mouth, and add stuffing.

I hope you found this blog post helpful!  Please feel free to add any suggestions and tips, and do pass this post along to your friends who are just learning how to crochet or wanting to make amigurumi!  I’ve linked this post to my “Amigurumi for Beginners" post here, and I’ve also updated it by adding some resources that can help you learn how to attach and sew your amigurumi parts together since I’ve received some questions about it.   Don’t hesitate to e-mail me or leave a comment if you have any further questions.  I’m so happy that people have been inspired to try my patterns after seeing my designs, and I hope that this will be a helpful resource for you all!  Happy crocheting :)

Pattern: Snuggles the Penguin

Who can resist Snuggles the Penguin with his sweet face all bundled up in his removable scarf?  Crochet your very own and he’ll make a great friend every season of the year!

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Pattern: Sweetheart Bunny

Make this adorable Sweetheart Bunny for your friends and family to show them your love this Valentine’s Day!  Or make one for yourself ^__^  This little sweetie with her dainty heart and pretty bow will warm your heart! 

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Pattern: Dragon

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It’s the Year of the Dragon this year!  To celebrate, crochet your own fire-breathing cuties in a rainbow of colours for yourself or for your friends! 

Read more

After all this time, I’ve finally joined Ravelry!  For those of you who don’t know, Ravelry is a wonderful social networking site for both crocheters and knitters, and a place to share information about yarn and patterns.  You can keep track of your projects and see what other people are working on too!  I can’t believe how many projects are in their database!  I’m slowly trying to add my own patterns and get familiar with the features, but so far it’s been fun exploring around and connecting with the very friendly community of Ravelers from around the world :)  You can check out my profile here and be my friend :D  I put a lot of effort into writing down my patterns and typing them up (haha, as pictured above), and I take great joy in being able to share them with you all and getting such great feedback!  If you haven’t joined Ravelry yet, come join the fun!

After all this time, I’ve finally joined Ravelry!  For those of you who don’t know, Ravelry is a wonderful social networking site for both crocheters and knitters, and a place to share information about yarn and patterns.  You can keep track of your projects and see what other people are working on too!  I can’t believe how many projects are in their database!  I’m slowly trying to add my own patterns and get familiar with the features, but so far it’s been fun exploring around and connecting with the very friendly community of Ravelers from around the world :)  You can check out my profile here and be my friend :D  I put a lot of effort into writing down my patterns and typing them up (haha, as pictured above), and I take great joy in being able to share them with you all and getting such great feedback!  If you haven’t joined Ravelry yet, come join the fun!

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