***You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE AD-FREE PDF of this pattern on Etsy HERE and on LoveCrafts HERE! This beautifully formatted PDF includes ALL the step-by-step pictures and pattern and is a total of 15 pages including the cover page! Lion Brand Yarn has made a convenient kit HERE that includes the digital pattern and all the 24/7 Cotton yarn needed (choose any color combination you want) to crochet this gorgeous bag! This bag is also part of my “Crochet Bags PATTERN BUNDLE” and the “Daisy Granny Square PATTERN BUNDLE“!
Pattern Description: Crochet this stunning tote bag bursting with bright daisies! 32 granny squares and 8 triangles are seamed together to form this functional bag that you will love bringing to the market, to the library and on all your outings!
Skill Level: Level 2 – Easy
Materials:
- 24/7 Cotton Yarn (worsted weight level 4 yarn) – find the kit HERE (choose any color combination you want)
- Color A: 280 g/521 yds (Bay Leaf) – 3 skeins
- Color B: 72 g/134 yds (Ecru) – 1 skein
- Color C: 40 g/75 yds (Goldenrod) – 1 skein
- 3.75 mm Clover Amour crochet hook
- Yarn Needle (bent tip helpful for attaching)
- Lock ring stitch markers
- Steamer (optional for blocking granny squares – I use this affordable one HERE)
- Large purse organizer insert (optional to add zipper closure and compartments to this bag)- dimensions of the insert are: Length: 13.25″/34 cm, Height: 8.25″/21 cm
Gauge:
- Daisy Granny Square: 3.75” /9.5 cm x 3.75”/9.5 cm; diagonal is 4.75”/12 cm
Final Dimensions:
- Width: 14.25″/36 cm, Height: 15.75″/38.7 cm, Straps: 21″/53 cm
Abbreviations:
- Magic Ring (MR): Make a loop. Hold yarn where ends cross. Insert hook into loop and pull up working yarn. Yarn over and pull through. Work subsequent stitches in magic ring and then pull tight to close. See my Magic Ring tutorial HERE and video HERE!
- Beginning cluster: Ch 2, [YO, insert hook in st, YO, pull up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops], rep 3 times in same st, YO, draw through 4 loops on hook.
- Cluster: [YO, insert hook in st, YO, draw up a loop, YO, draw through 2 loops on hook], rep 4 times in same st, YO, draw through 5 loops on hook.
- Extended single crochet: Insert hook through next stitch. Pull up a loop and extend the loop to desired height (elongate it to match the height of the rest of the stitches). YO, pull through both loops on hook.
- Invisible single crochet decrease: Insert hook into front loops of next 2 stitches. YO, pull through 2 loops. YO, pull through both loops.
Notes:
- This bag is constructed of 32 granny squares and 8 granny triangles that are seamed together in a special way.
- Three different shades of 24/7 Cotton are used to crochet the daisy granny square. Color A is the background frame color (“Bay Leaf” in this pattern), Color B is the color of the petals (“Ecru”) and Color C is the color of the daisy center (“Goldenrod”).
- The daisy granny square is crocheted in joined rounds and consists of 5 rounds: Rounds 1 and 2 are the center of the daisy (single crochet stitches), Round 3 consists of the petals (clusters), and Rounds 4 and 5 are the background frame (half double crochet and double crochet stitches).
- The granny triangle is crocheted in turned rows and mirrors the daisy granny square. In the triangle pattern, the turning chains at the beginning and end of the rows do not count as stitches (do not count them in the final stitch count at the end of the row in brackets).
- You can crochet over the yarn tails when switching yarn colors. I like to crochet over the yarn tails and also weave them in the opposite direction for added security.
- Once all 32 granny squares and 8 triangles have been crocheted, they are laid out in a special arrangement and seamed together using a slip stitch seaming method.
- There are 5 different points where you will strategically rejoin the yarn and slip stitch the squares and triangles together.
- When working the slip stitch seam, have the wrong sides of the granny squares and triangles facing you. This results in a cleaner seam on the right side of the bag as the wrong side results in raised ridges.
- You can weave the ends into the raised ridges of the seams on the wrong side of the bag.
- Stitches are then picked up along the top edge of the bag to form the top edging and two straps.
- You can adjust the length of the strap based on where you want the bag to hang and based on your height (I am 5’6 for reference). Keep in mind that your bag will hang lower once you have filled it with contents and more weight is added to it.
- Two rounds of single crochet stitches are worked along the inner edging of the strap and bag to increase the strength and widen the straps.
- Special decrease stitches are worked in each corner where the straps emerge from the top edging to prevent bunching.
- Blocking helps to relax the fibres and smooth out the stitches.
- You can purchase a large size interior bag organizer if you would like to add some compartments and zipper closure to this tote bag as it fits perfectly inside.
- Please reference my videos on YouTube to see how to crochet the granny squares and triangles, seam them together, and crochet the top edging and straps of this bag.
***Please watch these video tutorials below to see how to crochet the daisy granny square and triangle, how to seam the pieces together, and how to crochet the top edging and strap! You can also find these videos on YouTube HERE (Garden Days bag) and HERE (granny square)!
Garden Days Daisy Bag Video Tutorial:
Daisy Granny Square Video Tutorial (from the Summer Days Daisy Bag):
PATTERN:
Daisy Granny Square (make 32)
[Note that the collage photos are taken from the Summer Days Daisy Bag where Succulent is the main color.]
With Color C (Goldenrod),
Round 1: 12 sc in Magic Ring. Sl st to first sc. (12 sts)
R2: Chain 1, sc in same st. Sc around. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (12 sts)
With Color B (Ecru),
R3: Join with sl st in any sc. Work beginning cluster, chain 3. *Work cluster in next sc, chain 3* around. Slip stitch to top of beg cluster. Fasten off. (12 clusters and 12 ch-3 spaces)
With Color A (Succulent or Bay Leaf),
R4: Join with slip st in any ch-3 space. Chain 3 (counts as 1 dc), *2 dc, chain 2, 3 dc* in same space. Work 3 hdc in each of next 2 ch-3 spaces. [Work *3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc* in next ch-3 space. Work 3 hdc in each of next 2 ch-3 spaces.] Repeat everything between square brackets [ ] 2 more times. Slip stitch to top of chain 3. (48 sts and 4 ch-2 spaces)
R5: Chain 2 (counts as 1 hdc). Work 1 hdc in next st. Skip next st, *2 hdc, chain 2, 2 hdc* in chain-2 space. [Skip next st, hdc across until reach st before Ch 2 space (10 hdc). Skip next st, *2 hdc, chain 2, 2 hdc* in ch-2 space.]. Repeat everything between square brackets [ ] 2 more times. Skip next st, hdc 8. Slip st to top of chain 2. Fasten off. (56 sts and 4 ch-2 spaces)
Crochet 32 granny squares in total. You can block the squares to give them defined edges and to smooth out the stitches (optional).
Daisy Granny Triangle (make 8)
With Color C (Goldenrod),
Row 1: 6 sc in Magic Ring. (6 sts) [Note: Do not pull the Magic Ring too tightly as you will be inserting your hook in this space later on.]
Row 2: Chain 1, turn. Sc in each sc across. Fasten off. (6 sts)
With Color B (Ecru),
With right side facing you, join with slip stitch into first sc (far right side).
R3: Chain 5. Work cluster in same first sc. *Chain 3, work cluster in next sc* across. Chain 5 and slip stitch in last sc (where last cluster was just worked). Fasten off. (6 clusters and 7 chain spaces)
With Color A (Bay Leaf),
With wrong side facing you, join with slip stitch into first chain space (far right side):
R4: Chain 4. Work 3 dc in first chain space. Work 3 hdc in next 2 chain spaces. Work *3 dc, chain 2, 3 dc* in next chain space. Work 3 hdc in next 2 chain spaces. Work 3 dc in last chain space. Chain 4, slip stitch to last chain space. (24 sts, 3 chain spaces)
R5: Chain 1, turn. Slip stitch 2 up the chain 4 from previous row. Chain 4. Work 2 hdc in first chain space. Skip first dc, hdc 10 across, skip last dc before chain space. Work *2 hdc, chain 2, 2 hdc* in next chain space. Skip next dc, hdc 10 across, skip dc before last chain space. Work 2 hdc in last chain space. Chain 4, slip stitch to last chain space. Fasten off. (28 sts, 3 chain spaces)
Crochet 8 granny triangles in total. You can block the triangles to give them defined edges and to smooth out the stitches (optional).
Seaming Granny Squares & Triangles Together
Arrange the 32 granny squares and 8 granny triangles as shown below with the wrong sides facing upwards.
We will be using a special slip stitch seaming technique to attach the granny squares and triangles together. With this technique, we will be using slip stitches to attach the edges of the squares together with the working yarn (as opposed to using the whip stitch where we work with a long final end and a yarn needle). This seaming technique leaves a visible and pronounced ridge, which is why we seam the wrong sides together so the ridges are on the inside of the bag.
To do the slip stitch seaming, insert your crochet hook into both the front and back loops of one stitch of one granny square/triangle. Insert your hook into both the front and back loops of one stitch of the second granny square/triangle. Yarn over and draw through all the loops.
When seaming the granny square, divide the chain 2 in each corner so that 1 chain belongs to one side while the second chain belongs to the other side (see pic).
When seaming the triangles, begin the seam in the first chain beside the first/last stitch as shown below.
You can work extra slip stitches at junctions where four corners meet for extra security.
There are 5 different start points as indicated below. Work the slip stitch seaming to attach the granny squares and triangles together. Follow the direction of the arrows to minimize the need to cut and rejoin the yarn.
{Note that for Start Point 3, you need to follow the arrows all the way down to the bottom and then come back up. You will end where you started.}
The number of sides that you will be joining together for each start point is shown below:
Start Point 1: 7 sides
Start Point 2: 12 sides
Start Point 3: 24 sides
Start Point 4: 12 sides
Start Point 5: 7 sides
Side Seams
Fold the bag in half as indicated by the dotted line. After folding the bag, have the wrong sides of the squares facing you.
We will be seaming the sides of the bag together. You will start at the bottom triangle on each side and slip stitch seam up the sides (6 sides in total for each side).
[Note that the right sides of the squares are facing you in the collage photos below, but you want the wrong sides of the squares to be facing you.]
Here is another angle showing where you will work the side seams:
Rejoin the yarn in the Magic Circle of the bottom daisy triangle. Line up the stitches of the triangle. Insert your hook into the sides of the chains of the triangles (you are picking up stitches) and continue slip stitch seaming along the sides of the granny squares and triangles (see collage on next page). Fasten off when you have reached the top of the bag.
TIP: You can weave the ends into the raised ridges of the seams on the wrong side of the bag.
After you have finished seaming up both sides, flip the bag inside-out so that the right sides of the granny squares are now facing outwards.
Top Edging & Strap
With the right side of the bag facing you, we will now crochet the top edging and straps of the bag. We will be working in joined rounds.
Rejoin yarn in magic ring of far right triangle.
Round 1: Chain 1, sc in same stitch. Sc around, picking up stitches. Work extended single crochets in dips (where 3 corners meet). Slip stitch to first sc (I picked up approximately 118 stitches around).
Round 2: Chain 1, sc in same stitch. Sc around. Slip stitch to first sc.
Round 3: Repeat Round 2.
We will crochet the straps emerging from both sides of the bag in the next round.
Place 2 stitch markers as shown in the diagram so that they are approximately 7.5”/19 cm apart, centered around the middle daisy granny square. Repeat on the other side. The stitch markers should line up on both sides when the bag is flat. Four stitch markers have been placed in total.
Note that when working clockwise from the start position, the stitch markers are labeled: Stitch Marker 1 (SM1), Stitch Marker 2 (SM2), Stitch Marker 3 (SM3) and Stitch Marker 4 (SM4).
Round 4: Chain 1, sc in same stitch. Single crochet around to SM1. Chain 85 (adjust number as necessary) and being careful not to twist the chain, sc to SM2. Single crochet around to SM3. Chain 85 (adjust number as necessary) and being careful not to twist the chain, sc to SM4. Sc around to beginning of round, slip stitch to first sc.
Round 5: Chain 1, sc in same stitch. Sc around. Insert hook into both front and back loops of chains of straps (leave back bumps untouched). Slip stitch to first sc.
Round 6: Chain 1, sc in same stitch. Sc around. Work invisible single crochet decrease across 2 stitches where strap emerges from top edging (you will work four decreases in total, 2 on each side). Slip stitch to first sc.
{Arrows showing where invisible single crochet decrease is worked across 2 stitches where strap emerges from top edging.}
Fasten off.
Inner Edging
We will now be building up the top edging between the straps and increasing the width of the strap. We will repeat the steps written below for each side. Choose any side and begin (does not matter which side).
Round 1: Rejoin yarn in middle of top edging: make a slip knot and insert your hook into the middle of the top edging. Add the slip knot and pull through. Chain 1. Sc in next stitch and continue single crocheting to the corner (where strap emerges). Skip stitch, work invisible single crochet decrease across 2 corner stitches (1 side stitch and 1 back bump – reference graphics). Single crochet along back bumps of strap. Work another invisible single crochet decrease across corner, skip stitch, sc around. Slip stitch to first chain.
First corner:
Back bumps:
Second Corner:
Round 2: Chain 1, sc in next stitch. Sc around. Work 2 invisible single crochet decreases in each corner (along four corner stitches). In total there are 4 decreases in this round. After working sc of this round, slip stitch to chain 1.
First Corner:
Second Corner:
Fasten off and work a clean finish in the round.
How to Work a Clean Finish:
1.Thread the yarn tail through a yarn needle.
2.Insert the needle through both the front and back loops of the next stitch.
3.Pull through.
4.Insert your needle through the back loop only of the previous stitch and pull through.
5.This technique mimics the look of the stitches around it to produce a clean finish! Weave in all the ends.
Flip the bag and repeat the “Inner Edging” instructions for the other side.
Block the final bag to relax the fibres and smooth out the stitches, seams and straps!
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I have always wanted to design a large size daisy bag to complement my Summer Days Daisy Bag (small size) and Breezy Days Daisy Bag (medium size)! I love how this design turned out, and I hope you like the shape too!
It is very fun choosing different color combinations using 24/7 Cotton as there are so many beautiful shades to choose from! Be sure to check out my YouTube video HERE to see many different color combinations as I worked up this exact granny square using all the shades of 24/7 Cotton currently available. I think this Bay Leaf color looks stunning against the daisies, doesn’t it?
I hope you love this new addition to the daisy collection as much as I do! There is something so satisfying about crocheting each piece as you go and then putting them together to form such a magical piece! I am really looking forward to using this bag out and about and I know you will too!
{This post is sponsored by Lion Brand Yarn! I’ve loved working with their yarn throughout the years and I’m thrilled that I get to collaborate with them on my designs!}
This pattern is an original pattern by Stephanie Lau of All About Ami. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do not reprint it on your site. You may keep a copy for your own personal use but please DO NOT sell the pattern or distribute it.
You may sell products made from this pattern but please clearly credit the design to me, Stephanie Lau of All About Ami, and provide a link to my blog www.AllAboutAmi.com. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind. Thank you for being respectful and for your understanding!
