{"id":14212,"date":"2014-09-29T13:49:00","date_gmt":"2014-09-29T13:49:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ami.blogwrangler.net\/cabledslouchybeanie\/"},"modified":"2020-12-17T14:44:56","modified_gmt":"2020-12-17T21:44:56","slug":"cabledslouchybeanie","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.allaboutami.com\/cabledslouchybeanie\/","title":{"rendered":"Cabled Slouchy Beanie"},"content":{"rendered":"

***You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE AD-FREE PDF<\/b> of this pattern on Etsy HERE!<\/i><\/a><\/b>  This beautifully formatted PDF is a total of 11 pages including the cover page.  It includes the step-by-step picture tutorial and FOUR patterns<\/b>: the Adult Cabled Slouchy Beanie, Toddler Slouchy Beanie, Chunky Cabled Beanie, and Cabled Beanie version 2!  You can also purchase a convenient kit<\/strong><\/a> on the Lion Brand site HERE<\/strong><\/em><\/a> that includes 2 skeins of Heartland and a copy of the pattern!<\/p>\n

I love learning new crochet techniques, whether it be \u201cThe Invisible Decrease<\/i><\/a>\u201d for amigurumi or how to create a ribbed effect<\/i><\/a> for sweaters.  Last year, I discovered that the beautiful look of cabling could be achieved through crochet (not just through knitting!) when I followed Julee Reeves\u2019 free pattern<\/i><\/a> to make these gorgeous cabled wrist warmers<\/b> pictured below (I blogged about them HERE<\/b><\/i><\/a>).  I vowed that I would apply this new cabling technique I learned for future projects, and in last year\u2019s blog post, I even mentioned that I might try and make a cabled hat!  Here we are today, and I am excited to show you the \u201cCabled Slouchy Beanie<\/b>\u201d that I designed!<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

I used Lion Brand\u2019s \u201cHeartland<\/i>\u201d yarn in \u201cGrand Canyon<\/i>\u201d<\/a> which is a medium worsted weight (level 4) yarn.  It\u2019s a taupe and grey blend with hints of gold that is incredibly soft with a beautiful sheen to it- so perfect for fall!  I used a 5 mm crochet hook<\/i> with this yarn to make my cabled beanie.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

I started off by crocheting a ribbed band<\/b>, similar to the ribbed band of the \u201cUrban Jungle Slouchy Beanie<\/i><\/a>\u201d.  I chained 10 and then worked single crochets in the back loops only<\/b> to create the ribbed effect.  The back loops are the loops that are further away from you<\/i> as pictured below.<\/p>\n

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The ribbed band is starting to build up\u2026<\/p>\n

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After 75 rows, my band measured about 21.5″ or 54 cm.  You can measure your own head and adjust this number as necessary- keep in mind that this band will stretch over time with repeated wears!<\/p>\n

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Next up, I sewed the short ends together to form the ribbed band!  As a warning, this pattern is not for beginners as it is more technical and uses more complicated crochet stitches.  I tried to be as detailed as possible with this next series of photos and with the pattern instructions- they may look and sound complicated, but once you get the hang of it, this project will work up quickly.  Ryan was laughing as he helped me proofread this blog post as he did not understand the next part whatsoever as it was so technical!<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

I began working double crochets<\/b> around the edge of the band to create Round 1 of the cabled body of the beanie.  First I chained 2 and then worked one double crochet in the same stitch.  This is important for the invisible seam<\/b> we will be creating whenever we join each round!  The chain 2 does not count as a stitch in the final stitch count at the end of each round.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

After working 72 double crochets around the band, this is what I was left with.  If you are adjusting this pattern with your own numbers, you need to make sure that the total number of double crochets you are left with is a multiple of 6<\/b> (i.e. add or subtract multiples of 6).  Try to space the double crochets as evenly as possible across the band, but it\u2019s not a big deal if some are a little more bunched or spaced apart if you are trying to attain the right number- it will even out in subsequent rounds.<\/p>\n

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When closing up this round, it is important that you join with a slip stitch to the first double crochet<\/b> and not the Chain 2 (you just ignore the Ch 2 like it\u2019s not there).<\/p>\n

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Next you Chain 2\u2026<\/p>\n

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Then you work one back post double crochet<\/b> around the same double crochet that you slip stitched to when you joined the round.  Then you do another back post double crochet around the next double crochet.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

Then the cabling begins!  You skip the next two double crochets and then work two front post treble crochets<\/b> around the next two stitches.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

Then you work two front post treble crochets<\/b> around the previously skipped double crochets<\/i>.  They will cross over the other 2 fptc\u2019s that you just did, which gives the cabling effect.<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

Next you work two back post double crochets<\/b> around the next two stitches.  You continue alternating with this pattern of doing two back post double crochets and working the cabling around the next four stitches.  This is why you must work with multiples of six<\/i> (two for the bpdc\u2019s and four for the fptc\u2019s).<\/p>\n

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When it is time to close up this round and subsequent rounds, make sure you slip stitch to the top of the first Bpdc, not the Chain 2.<\/p>\n

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Round 2 is complete!<\/p>\n

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To begin Round 3, we chain 2, then do our two bpdc\u2019s.  These bpdc\u2019s help push these stitches back which makes the cabling stand out even more.<\/p>\n

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Next we work two Fpdc\u2019s around the two stitches that are underneath the cable<\/b>.  Make sure you do not accidentally do them around the wrong stitches (i.e. the ones that cross over) as this will undo your cabling!<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

Then you work two Fpdc\u2019s around the two stitches that cross over the cabling.  This step helps solidify or lock your cabling from the previous round into place!<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

After continuing with this same pattern, here is what you are left with after completing Round 3.  The cabling is really taking shape!<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

In Round 4, you do your 2 bpdc\u2019s as normal and then work 4 Fpdc\u2019s as indicated below.<\/p>\n

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Our cabling is now complete!  Each cable is worked over three rounds (Rounds 2-4 in this case) and you keep doing this pattern until you are happy with the height of your hat (the more rounds you work, the longer your hat, and the slouchier it will be)!<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

The look of cabling is so gorgeous and luxurious as it has such beautiful texture!<\/p>\n

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Did you know that cabling could be achieved through crochet?  Once you get the hang of the pattern and how to work the different stitches, this project goes by quickly!<\/p>\n

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Using 1 skein of yarn<\/b>, I was able to go up to Round 19 which resulted in 6 cables.  My hat measured 10″ or 25.5 cm including the band.  You could technically finish here if you want to only use one skein of yarn as I know sometimes it\u2019s a hassle to buy another skein, especially if you are going to be using only a part of it.  However, I bought another skein since I wanted my beanie to be slightly longer and I wanted to add a pom pom too\u2026<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

I added another 3 rounds to make 7 cables<\/b> in total, and my hat now measured 11.25″ or 29 cm long.  You can keep going if you want your hat to be even slouchier!<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

To seam up the top of the hat, I threaded yarn along the last round and pulled tightly to gather it together (similar to how I seamed up my \u201cEasy Ribbed Pom Pom Beanie<\/b><\/i><\/a>\u201d).<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

After tightly pulling, I was left with a small hole, so I simply sewed it shut.<\/p>\n

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As an alternative, you could also seam up the beanie by pinching the edges and single crocheting or slip stitching them together in a star formation – see the video below (beanie in video is my “Braided Cabled Slouchy Beanie<\/strong><\/a>“)!<\/p>\n

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\n\n

\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t\t\n\t<\/div>\n<\/p>\n

Here is a close-up of the invisible seam<\/b>!  It blends in so nicely and you would not notice it was there unless you were looking for it!<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

I wanted to add a pom pom<\/b> to this cabled slouchy beanie, and I was excited to put my new Clover Pom Pom maker<\/b><\/i><\/a> to use (see my review<\/i> and step-by-step tutorial<\/i> on how to use it HERE<\/b><\/i><\/a>).  I used the larger size to make the pom pom for my beanie!<\/p>\n

\"Clover<\/p>\n

After attaching the pom pom, my \u201cCabled Slouchy Beanie<\/b>\u201d was complete!  Isn\u2019t it beautiful?<\/p>\n

\"Crochet<\/p>\n

***************************************<\/p>\n

Here is the free pattern<\/b> for my \u201cCabled Slouchy Beanie<\/b>\u201d (adult size)!<\/p>\n

***You can purchase an INEXPENSIVE AD-FREE PDF<\/b> of this pattern on Etsy HERE<\/i><\/a><\/b>!<\/a>  This beautifully formatted PDF is a total of 11 pages including the cover page.  It includes the step-by-step picture tutorial and FOUR patterns<\/b>: the Adult Cabled Slouchy Beanie, Toddler Slouchy Beanie, Chunky Cabled Beanie, and Cabled Beanie version 2!  You can also purchase a convenient kit<\/strong><\/a> on the Lion Brand site HERE<\/strong><\/em><\/a> that includes 2 skeins of Heartland and a copy of the pattern!<\/p>\n

– Be warned that this pattern looks complicated but once you get the hang of the technique and repetition, it goes by quickly.  Hopefully the step-by-step pictures above will help make the technical pattern easier to understand as well.  With that being said, this is not a beginner\u2019s project as some crochet experience under your belt would greatly help!<\/p>\n

Materials:<\/i><\/p>\n