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31 posts tagged winter

Sneak peek of upcoming step-by-step blog post & free pattern: The Twist Cowl (a very versatile pattern using two designs that you can modify to fit your own style!)
I designed this cowl for the Lion Brand #scarfie campaign ❤  Can’t wait to share more about this with you soon!

Sneak peek of upcoming step-by-step blog post & free pattern: The Twist Cowl (a very versatile pattern using two designs that you can modify to fit your own style!)

I designed this cowl for the Lion Brand #scarfie campaign ❤  Can’t wait to share more about this with you soon!

Chunky Cabled Slouchy Beanie

Two weeks ago I blogged about the “Cabled Slouchy Beanies" that I designed and crocheted for Myla and I.  Thank you so much for all the warm feedback you’ve given me about that pattern, and I’m delighted to hear that you found my step-by-step tutorial easy to follow and understand!  Cabling in crochet really isn’t that difficult once you get the hang of it, and I’m glad that you’ve enjoyed learning this new technique and making cabled beanies of your own!

Before crocheting those beanies using worsted weight yarn, I actually started off by crocheting a “Chunky Cabled Slouchy Beanie" using super bulky yarn!  I had always wanted to make a super chunky beanie, and I wanted to try the cabling technique I had learned from my “Cabled Wrist Warmers" with this hat.  I loved this gorgeous mustard yellow yarn called "Goldenrod" in "Loops & Threads Cozy Wool”.  I needed about 2 skeins of this yarn to make this beanie (including the pom pom with some yarn left over).

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This beanie is constructed the exact same way as the “Cabled Slouchy Beanie”!  Of course, the numbers are very different since you are using super bulky yarn (level 6) versus worsted weight yarn (level 4).  You start off by crocheting the ribbed band!  I used a 10 mm hook with this project, and I must warn you that my beanie ended up stretching A LOT!  Thus, I would recommend trying to adjust for this by either making your ribbed band smaller than you think it should be or perhaps using a smaller crochet hook (maybe an 8 or 9 mm).

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You then work double crochets around the edge of the band, and then begin your cabling in the subsequent rounds.  Please refer to the very detailed step-by-step pictures and instructions I wrote up regarding cabling HERE in my “Cabled Slouchy Beanie" post!  The technique is exactly the same!

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I ended up doing 4 sets of chunky cables!  Don’t the cables look so plump and textured?  I was curious what more delicate cables would look like after making this beanie, which is why I made the other beanies with worsted weight yarn for Myla and I!

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After closing up the top of the beanie…

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I then used my “Clover Pom Pom Maker" to make a super fluffy yellow pom pom using the super bulky yarn!  You can read my review about this awesome pom pom maker tool HERE :)

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After attaching the pom pom, this was my finished “Chunky Cabled Slouchy Beanie”!  Doesn’t it look so warm and soft?

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Here is the free pattern for my “Chunky Cabled Slouchy Beanie”!

This is not a beginner’s project as some previous crochet experience would help!  PLEASE refer to the step-by-step pictures found HERE in order to make this technical pattern easier to understand!

Materials:

  • 10 mm crochet hook (or 8-9 mm hook- see important note below)
  • Super bulky yarn, level 6 (I used Loops & Threads Cozy Wool in “Goldenrod”, 2 skeins)
  • Optional: yarn needle to seam up beanie; Clover Pom Pom Maker

Special stitches:

  • Front Post Treble Crochet (Fptc)Yarn Over (YO) twice, insert hook from front to back around post of stitch indicated. YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times.
  • Back Post Double Crochet (Bpdc): YO, insert hook behind post of stitch (insert hook from back to front of stitch), YO, pull up a loop, YO, (pull through 2 loops) twice.
  • Front Post Double Crochet (Fpdc): YO, insert hook behind post of stitch (insert hook from front to back of stitch), YO, pull up a loop, YO, (pull through 2 loops) twice. 

Ribbed Band:

Chain 6

R1: In back loops only, Sc 1 in second chain from hook and in each chain across (5 sc).

R2-30: Chain 1, turn.  In back loops only, Sc 1 in second chain from hook and in each chain across (5 sc).

My ribbed band measured 18” or 45 cm.  Adjust this number based on your own head size.  Keep in mind that this band is capable of stretching a lot since we are working with super bulky yarn and a large crochet hook.  Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Sew short ends together to form ribbed band.  

Cabled Body:

***In each round, the Ch 2 does not count as a stitch.  When joining at the end of each round, join to the stitch indicated (NOT the Ch 2) to make an invisible seam.

Join yarn with sl st at any point around edge of band.

Round 1: Chain 2, work one double crochet in same st as Chain 2.  Work 29 dc as evenly as possible around edge of band.  Join with sl st to first dc (30 dc).  [If adapting the pattern, make sure your final number of dc’s is a multiple of 6.]  

R2: Chain 2, Bpdc around first dc from previous round (same dc you joined to from Round 1).  Bpdc around next st.  Work cabling: {Skip next two dc, 2 Fptc around next 2 dc.  Fptc around first skipped dc and next dc}.  *2 bpdc in next two st.  Work cabling: Sk next 2 st, 2 Fptc around next 2 st.  Fptc around first skipped st and next st.*, rep 4 times.  Join with sl st to first Bpdc.  (5 cables around with 5 sets of Bpdc’s between)

R3: Chain 2, Bpdc around first Bpdc from previous round.  Bpdc around next st.  Fpdc 4.  *Bpdc 2, Fpdc 4*, rep 4 times .  Join with sl st to first Bpdc.  (5 cables around with 5 sets of Bpdc’s between)

R4: Repeat Round 3.

With rounds 2-4, one set of cables is complete!  Keep repeating Rounds 2-4 until desired length.  

R5-7: same as Round 2-4

R8-10: same as Round 2-4

R11-13: same as Rounds 2-4

I completed 4 sets of cables with my beanie measuring 11.25” or 29 cm (including ribbed band).  Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Weave yarn through ends of last round, pull tightly and sew hole shut.  Alternatively, seam up beanie using this method HERE.

Optional: Add pom pom (I used my “Clover Pom Pom Maker”).  Attach pom pom to beanie and you are DONE!

****IMPORTANT NOTES:

  • Because of the chunkiness of this yarn and the large 10 mm crochet hook used, my beanie ended up stretching A LOT!  Please keep this in mind as you may want to make this beanie smaller so that it has room to stretch later on.  You could do this by making your ribbed band shorter or by using a smaller crochet hook (8 or 9 mm)!
  • Adding the pom pom to this hat makes it somewhat back heavy as this hat tends to slide off my head (this is probably also due to the fact that it has stretched quite a bit).  You could omit the pom pom, make it less slouchy (by doing fewer rounds) or also make the ribbed band wider (i.e. chain more than 6 in the beginning).  I have a larger-than-average head, so if this hat ended up being too big for me, it might be too big for you.  It actually fits Ryan comfortably now!  Please adapt this pattern as you see fit!

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This beanie is very warm, and I love the chunky look of it!  As you can see in the picture below, this beanie does stretch quite a bit, particularly in the back double crochet part between the cables….

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Cuddling with my little cutie!  I really adore this golden yellow colour- it’s so perfect for fall and will add a nice pop of colour to my winter wardrobe :)

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[Striped Tunic: Urban Outfitters, Jacket: Aritzia, Boots: Steve Madden; Chunky Cabled Beanie: Me :D; Belt: Aldo Accessories; Gold Leather Bracelet Cuff: Mahina; Watch: Michael Kors]

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Here are my Cabled Beanies altogether :)  Using the worsted weight yarn definitely has a more delicate look as you can see the cables better.  The chunky super bulky yarn gives a lot of texture and a puffier look, and it works up extremely quickly since you are working with such a large crochet hook and chunk yarn!  I love how this pattern can be easily adapted for different yarns and for different head sizes!  Check out this helpful chart HERE to reference hat circumference and hat height measurements for different age groups.  Once again, my “Cabled Slouchy Beanie" for adults using worsted weight yarn can be found HERE while the toddler version can be found HERE!

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I hope you enjoyed this series of blog posts about cabling!  I really enjoyed learning this technique and introducing it to you all, and I hope you have fun making your own beanies using all different types of yarn for yourself, your friends and your family :)  Stay tuned for some cowls and scarves coming your way- what better way to keep warm this fall and winter than in your own handmade and crocheted creations?

Sneak peek of upcoming blog post & free pattern: Chunky Cabled Slouchy Beanie

Sneak peek of upcoming blog post & free pattern: Chunky Cabled Slouchy Beanie

Toddler Cabled Slouchy Beanie

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Here is the free pattern for the “Toddler Cabled Slouchy Beanie" that I made for my daughter Myla to match the adult one that I made for myself!

***PLEASE follow along with the step-by-step post HERE as I showed how to work the cabling in detail with plenty of photos :)

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Materials:

  • 4 mm crochet hook (I used this to achieve smaller, more delicate cables compared to my adult beanie- you can choose to use either a 4 or 5 mm hook and adjust numbers as necessary)
  • Medium worsted weight yarn (I used Lion Brand’s Heartland in “Grand Canyon”, 1 skein)
  • Optional: yarn needle to seam up beanie; Clover Pom Pom Maker

Special stitches:

  • Front Post Treble Crochet (Fptc): Yarn Over (YO) twice, insert hook from front to back around post of stitch indicated. YO and pull up a loop, [YO and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times.
  • Back Post Double Crochet (Bpdc): YO, insert hook behind post of stitch (insert hook from back to front of stitch), YO, pull up a loop, YO, (pull through 2 loops) twice.
  • Front Post Double Crochet (Fpdc): YO, insert hook behind post of stitch (insert hook from front to back of stitch), YO, pull up a loop, YO, (pull through 2 loops) twice. 

Ribbed Band:

Chain 7

R1: In back loops only, Sc 1 in second chain from hook and in each chain across (6 sc).

R2-67: Chain 1, turn.  In back loops only, Sc 1 in second chain from hook and in each chain across (6 sc).

My ribbed band measured 16.5” or 40.5 cm.  Adjust this number based on desired size.  Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Sew short ends together to form ribbed band.  

Cabled Body:

***In each round, the Ch 2 does not count as a stitch.  When joining at the end of each round, join to the stitch indicated (NOT the Ch 2) to make an invisible seam.

Join yarn with sl st at any point around edge of band.

Round 1: Chain 2, work one double crochet in same st as Chain 2.  Work 65 dc as evenly as possible around edge of band.  Join with sl st to first dc (66 dc).  [If adapting the pattern, make sure your final number of dc’s is a multiple of 6.]  

R2: Chain 2, Bpdc around first dc from previous round (same dc you joined to from Round 1).  Bpdc around next st.  Work cabling: {Skip next two dc, 2 Fptc around next 2 dc.  Fptc around first skipped dc and next dc}.  *2 bpdc in next two st.  Work cabling: Sk next 2 st, 2 Fptc around next 2 st.  Fptc around first skipped st and next st.*, rep 11 times.  Join with sl st to first Bpdc.  (11 cables around with 11 sets of Bpdc’s between)

R3: Chain 2, Bpdc around first Bpdc from previous round.  Bpdc around next st.  Fpdc 4.  *Bpdc 2, Fpdc 4*, rep 11 times .  Join with sl st to first Bpdc.  (11 cables around with 11 sets of Bpdc’s between)

R4: Repeat Round 3.

With rounds 2-4, one set of cables is complete!  Keep repeating Rounds 2-4 until desired length.  

R5-7: same as Round 2-4

R8-10: same as Round 2-4

R11-13: same as Rounds 2-4

R14-16: same as Rounds 2-4

R17-19: same as Rounds 2-4

R20-22: same as Rounds 2-4

I completed 7 sets of cables with this beanie measuring 9” or 22 cm (including ribbed band).  Fasten off and leave long end for sewing.  Weave yarn through ends of last round, pull tightly and sew hole shut.  Alternatively, seam up beanie using this method HERE.

Optional: Add pom pom (I used my “Clover Pom Pom Maker”).  Attach pom pom to beanie and you are DONE!

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If you would like to adapt this pattern for a baby, child, teen, etc., please check out this very helpful post by Anne HERE that contains a chart with head circumference sizes (your ribbed band) as well as general hat height (the number of rounds or length of the beanie)! 

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This toddler version is such a cute accompaniment to my adult “Cabled Slouchy Beanie”!  Don’t forget to check out the step-by-step blog post and free pattern to the adult beanie HERE

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Enjoy matching with your mini-me’s!  These “Cabled Slouchy Beanies" are really perfect for the fall and winter and would make great gifts for mommies, daddies, and their little ones!

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I also made a “Chunky Crocheted Slouchy Beanie" for another variation using super bulky (level 6) yarn- you can find the free pattern HERE!  Keep up with all my updates on FacebookTwitter (@AllAboutAmi) & Instagram (@AllAboutAmi)!   Happy cabling!  ❤

Amazon Affiliate Links

Lion Brand Heartland Yarn Grand Canyon 

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Easy Chunky Crochet Sweater

I’ve always wanted to try crocheting some sort of clothing piece that I could wear as I’ve previously made a lot of accessories such as cowls and hats.  I dabbled in sweater-making with Myla’s “Arbor Baby Sweater" but up till now, I could not find a crocheted sweater pattern for adults that I absolutely loved.  Furthermore, I didn’t feel confident enough to try making my own design since I had no previous experience working on an adult sweater.  

Much to my delight, I saw a picture of a gorgeous sweater that draped beautifully on-line, and it turned out to be a free crochet pattern on the Lion Brand Yarns website called the “Simple Crochet Shrug" (see HERE).  When I quickly read through the pattern, I was blown away by its simplicity as the construction was simply one massive rectangle folded in half and then seamed along the sides while leaving arm holes- no other attachments were necessary!  It was a very popular pattern as over 600 people had made this project on Ravelry, and I couldn’t wait to give this sweater a try!

Picking out the colour and yarn I wanted for my sweater was tricky, but eventually we decided upon Bernat’s Softee Chunky in “Grey Ragg”.  It is a very soft yarn that does not fuzz up too easily and I absolutely loved the light grey and white variegation that I knew would give my sweater a beautiful look.  It’s a super bulky (level 6) yarn that has a net weight of 100 g/3.5 oz and approximately 99 m/108 yds.  In total, I used five skeins of this yarn.  Each skein regularly costs $4.99 (Canadian) and with the Michael’s 40% off coupon, each skein came out to $2.99, so the cost of materials for this sweater was very affordable.  You can also find this yarn on Amazon HERE for only $2.74!

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I read through almost all the Ravelry entries of this project to see how other people’s sweaters turned out depending on how many chains they started with, what yarn they used and any other modifications they made.  It was a challenge determining the size as some people’s sweaters turned out too long or too short, and it was hard to judge how tall these people were in their photos.  I wanted to make my sweater oversized and long enough to cover my rear, and I actually ended up making my sweater WAYY too big on the first try.  Sweaters stretch a lot and I decided to frog my work and start over so that I could try and make it the perfect size on the second try!  

I chained 76 using my 10 mm crochet hook.  It is VERY important to note that this initial series of chain stitches will be the LENGTH of your sweater, so determining this initial length is key as you will not be able to change it later on (unless you add some edging at the end).  The rows worked later on will be the width of your sweater.  Do keep in mind that your sweater can stretch later on as you pull it downwards too.  For reference, I am about 5’ 6” tall.  

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To achieve the beautiful ribbing of this sweater, you work single crochets in the back loops only.  As a reminder, the back loops are the loops further away from you while the front loops are the ones closer to you when you’re crocheting.

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You crochet row by row in the back loops only, turning your work as you go.  How simple can this pattern be?  It’s the perfect project to work on when you’re watching tv or having a conversation since you don’t need to keep the count and it works up so quickly since you’re using chunky yarn and such a large crochet hook.  Doesn’t the ribbing give such beautiful texture?

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You keep adding rows until you are happy with the width of your sweater.  In the end, I ended up with 56 rows measuring 31”/79 cm across.  Lengthwise, my rectangle was 38.5”/98 cm (remember that this is capable of stretching quite a bit too).

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Next, you fold the rectangle in half.  It is very important that you fold your rectangle in half so that the rows are running vertically!  I noticed that quite a few people on Ravelry were folding their rectangles the wrong way as their rows were running horizontally.  This meant that their resulting sweaters were very wide and short!

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To create the arm holes, you seam up the sides.

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I seamed up 11”/28 cm and left 8”/20 cm for the arm hole on each side.

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This is how you wear the piece- now it’s looking more sweater-like :)  You’ll notice that the the rows now run horizontally in the front but vertically in the back.  When I was working on this piece and periodically measuring it to my body to check for size, it seemed as though it might end up being too short.  However, we learned from our first experience, and we knew that it was capable of stretching a lot later on.  Thus, don’t be too worried if you think your sweater seems it might be a tad short…

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I wanted to add my own modification to this sweater pattern by adding a special ribbed collar.  To do so, I located the midline of the sweater and attached a stitch marker (you can’t see it too well in the picture below, but there is a peach stitch marker where the midline arrow is pointing to).  Next, I wore the sweater and determined where I wanted the collar to start. I placed a green stitch marker 12 rows below the arm seam on either side (this will vary depending on your height and where you want your own collar to start).  In case you’re interested, I have been using my “Clover Lock Ring Markers" a lot for all my recent projects, and none of them have broken on me (buy them HERE)!

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Starting from the green stitch marker on the left side (when you’re looking at the sweater) and crocheting upwards towards the peach marker, I worked some slip stitches, single crochets, half double crochets and then double crochets in Row 1.  This helped to slowly build up the collar and make it taper towards the ends.  I did the exact same pattern back downwards to the other green stitch marker once I reached the midline at the top to make it symmetrical.  I used a smaller 8 mm crochet hook for this collar part to get tighter, smaller stitches compared to those of the body.  I also tried to pick up stitches quite close together so that there were no gaps in the collar.

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Row 1 is complete!

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Next I alternated front post double crochets with back post double crochets in Row 2 to begin creating a ribbed effect.  

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I did the same thing for Rows 3 and 4 to really emphasize the ribbing.

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The ribbed collar is complete!

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You can fold the collar up…

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And the ribbing is on the other side too :)  I think this ribbed collar is a really nice addition, don’t you?  I’m really happy with how it turned out!

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Here is the pattern for the collar that I added in case you’re interested in crocheting one for your sweater too!

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To access the free Lion Brand pattern for their “Simple Crochet Shrug”, click HERE.  They have also written up patterns for the same shrug using different weights of yarn (e.g. worsted, bulky, super bulky), so see a list of them HERE towards the bottom under “Also available in other Lion Brand yarns" to get an idea of what numbers you should use for your particular yarn.

In summary for my own sweater, I chained 76 initially and did 56 rows of single crochets.  I used a 10 mm crochet hook for the body of the sweater and 5 skeins of yarn.  Keep in mind that these numbers will vary for yourself depending on how long and wide you want your sweater to be (and depending on your height), what hook size and yarn you use (worsted, bulky, super bulky) and how tightly you crochet (smaller, tighter stitches will result in your sweater stretching less while loose stitches will result in more stretching).

Collar Pattern:

- Tag upper midline with stitch marker.

- Tag sides with stitch markers indicating where you want your collar to begin and end (12 rows below arm seam for mine).

{Sl st = slip stitch, Sc = single crochet, Hdc = half double crochet, Fpdc = front post double crochet, Bpdc = back post double crochet (learn how to do Fpdc’s HERE and Bpdc’s HERE)}

Using 8 mm hook,

R1: Sl st 2, Sc 2, Hdc 2, Dc 57 (or however many it takes for you to reach stitch marker at upper midline- space your stitches close together so that there are no gaps). Dc at stitch marker.  Repeat exact same pattern down the other way to your stitch marker: Dc 57, Hdc 2, Sc 2, Sl st 2.  Slip stitch to next stitch, turn. 

R2: Sl st 2, Sc 2, Hdc 2, alternate fpdc and bpdc around (i.e. start with fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, etc) until 6 stitches left.  Hdc 2, sc 2, sl st 2. Slip stitch to next stitch, turn.

R3: Same as R2 but alternate bpdc with fpdc (i.e. start with bpdc, fpdc, bpdc, fpdc, etc) to ensure that ribbing is building up.

R4: Same as R2.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

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I was incredibly excited to try on my new sweater and we took advantage of the last days of summer weather to do a photoshoot before the snow comes!  This sweater is so versatile as it looks cute over a dress, and I can see myself wearing this in the winter with leggings and tall boots too!

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I’ll be able to wear this as my pregnant belly continues to grow as I enter my third trimester soon- oversized cardigans and sweaters are a must as winter and sweater weather rolls around!  I practically lived in my nursing tank tops with blazers and cardigans over top when I was nursing Myla (see my Maternity Fashion HERE and my Nursing Fashion HERE), so I know I’ll be wearing this sweater a lot post partum, especially since we’re having a winter baby.

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I’m really happy with how the sizing of the sweater turned out as the length is not too long or too short.  The ginormous sweater I made on my first try (I chained 100 and did 68 rows) made me look like I was being engulfed in a blanket as it extended down towards my calves!  

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The vertical ribbing looks beautiful from behind.  This sweater is so incredibly luxurious and romantic…

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This sweater does tend to bunch around the bum area a bit due to its construction, but it’s not a big deal…

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Popping up my ribbed collar!  If you don’t want to add this special collar or you think it might be too difficult, you could always simply crochet more rows when working on your big rectangle to increase its width.  The piece will naturally fold to give a collar if it’s wide enough.  

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You could also add some buttons to this sweater if you wanted some closure!  I myself love how it hangs and drapes naturally when I wear it. Another modification you could try is adding sleeves by crocheting around the armholes too!

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[Dress: Urban Outfitters, Boots: Steve Madden; Purse: Coach; Sweater: Me :D; Bracelet: Mikaylove; Necklace: Mahina; Watch: Michael Kors]

I know people tend to whip out their crochet hooks as temperatures drop and fall and winter begin, so this is the perfect project to work on!  Sweater weather will soon be upon us, and it is actually currently snowing where I live as I write this post (ahh, the fleeting days of summer).  This sweater is so incredibly simple to crochet and the results are gorgeous, like something you would see in a high end fashion boutique.  It’s a great beginner’s project, and it’s such an amazing feeling being able to wear something you created with your own two hands from scratch (I love seeing the looks on people’s faces when they discover that I made my crocheted pieces)!  Let me know what you think of this sweater in the comments below, if you’ll be trying out this design, and if you’ve come across any other sweater patterns that you’ve loved.  If you do end up making your own sweater, I think it’d be really helpful to leave a comment below letting us know what yarn you used and how many chains and rows you ended up going with too :)

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Here are some of my previous winter crochet projects in case you’re interested in crocheting some hats and cowls while you’re at it!  From left to right and top to bottom we have the Easy Ribbed Pom Pom Beanie, Knotted Headband, Puff Stitch Cowl, Buttoned Shell Stitch Cowl, Long Double Crochet Cowl, and Urban Jungle Slouchy Beanie.  The “Easy Ribbed Pom Pom Beanie" has a similar construction to this sweater and is a great beginner’s project!  Don’t forget to keep up with me on my Facebook, Twitter and Instagram as I’m putting the final touches on a lot of new designs and projects.  I’ve been on a crocheting frenzy as I try and bring to life all the designs swirling in my mind before Baby #2 comes and life gets extremely busy!  Enjoy making your own beautiful sweaters and let me know how it goes!

Sneak peek of upcoming blog post & step-by-step tutorial: Easy Chunky Crochet Sweater

Sneak peek of upcoming blog post & step-by-step tutorial: Easy Chunky Crochet Sweater

Crochet Toddler Loop Boots with Suede Sole

One of the things I love about my passion for crochet is being able to make beautiful, unique items for my little girl that cannot be purchased in stores and are handcrafted with a lot of love!  For Myla’s 1st birthday, she was gifted with a pair of Padraig boots (see here if you’ve never seen them before) from some dear friends: these boots were crocheted with New Zealand wool, lined with sheepskin and had leather soles!  Myla wore them for the next couple of months and they were great as they were warm and provided great grip as she learned how to walk around.  You can see Myla wearing them in this photo I posted to Instagram below (don’t you love our matching parkas?)!  As soon as Ryan and I laid eyes on these Padraigs, we knew we wanted to try and crochet Myla a pair of boots with a leather or suede sole that would be functional for our walking toddler (see my previous baby boots here).  

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As I was looking up patterns on different sites, I came across “Two Girls Patterns" on Etsy and absolutely fell in love with their designs!  Kris and Lorin have so many patterns for cute and modern slippers, boots and hats, and I thought their "Furrylicious/Little Diva Boots" in particular really stood out!  These boots are crocheted using the loop stitch which gives a beautiful and unique texture to the boots.  I was very excited to get my hands on the pattern, and if you visit their Etsy store, you will see it being sold for $5.50 USD (you get a discount if you buy multiple patterns at the same time, and the pattern is also available for babies, toddlers, and even adults!).  I knew it would be a great pattern because their store has rave reviews with everyone saying that their patterns are easy to follow and detailed with clear pictures!

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The toddler version includes sizes 4-9 (you get all the sizes when you purchase the pattern), and I opted for a size 4 for Myla.  Their pattern very clearly states all the materials needed, instructions on how to work the loop stitch and some notes that are very important to read before starting the project.  For example, this boot is made by holding two strands of yarn at the same time!  I started by crocheting the sole using a tan colour.  

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Next, I started crocheting the upper shoe with a white yarn (I used “Patons Canadiana” in “Winter White”).

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Then the fun part began: the loop stitches!  It was my first time doing the loop stitch, and I LOVED doing it!  See this great tutorial and video that Fresh Stitches put together HERE that details how to do the loop stitch. 

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The loops are formed by wrapping the yarn around your finger!   It’s important to draw both strands of the looped yarn through the stitch as just drawing through one strand will not work.  For some reason when I began crocheting the loop stitches, I was doing them incorrectly by swinging my hook in the wrong direction- the loops seemed okay at first but as I continued moving on, the loops kept pulling inwards toward the centre of the boot and thus getting smaller.  Thankfully, I noticed my mistake, undid my work, examined the instructions carefully again and continued onwards.  Once I started doing the loop stitch correctly, they looked great!  I need to figure out how to incorporate loop stitches in future projects as the results look so textured and beautiful!

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Next, the upper boot is worked up as you add more and more loop stitches!  I really love the look of the overlapping and cascading loops! 

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The boots are designed so that buttons can be sewn on one edge while there are button holes on the opposing and overlapping edge.  The buttons give such a cute look to the boots!

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Finally, my loop boots were complete!  I was so happy with how they turned out, and the pattern was very easy to follow and understand.  I love how Kris and Lorin laid out the directions very clearly, and they always offer support for their patterns if you need it and are more than happy to help :)  These boots are very well-designed and I really admire designers who can think out patterns such as these (I myself find designing boots and shoes daunting, especially since the shape and sizing is so important!).  This pattern is well worth the money, particularly since it includes the pattern for so many sizes…I can keep crocheting boots for Myla until she reaches size 9!

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Here are Myla’s boots from the bottom!  We let Myla wear them on carpeted surfaces such as our church sanctuary, but she would be slipping and sliding all over the place if we let her wear them on a hardwood or tile floor.  Thus, I looked up many tutorials, videos and posts about how to make crocheted slippers non-slip.  Moogly has a great post on “7 Great Ways to Make Slippers Non-Slip”- some of these ways include adding fabric paint or silicone sealant.  One method that I was particularly interested in was using a rubber spray called “Plasti Dip” which would apparently make the sole rubbery (see video HERE).  [UPDATE: I tried using “Plasti Dip” on another pair of boots and it worked very well- see the full blog post HERE!]

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However, we really wanted to try using leather/suede for the soles as we loved the luxurious and very functional look of Myla’s Padraigs.  And so, we purchased some scrap suede and excitedly began Myla’s Loop Boots, version 2.0!  I crocheted a sole using some scrap yarn following the pattern for a size 4.5 boot so that Myla would have a little more room to grow into them.  We then traced the sole onto the suede and made tick marks at every stitch with a pen so that we knew where to add holes (e.g. if you have 42 stitches in the last round of the sole, you should have 42 tick marks around the suede!).  We then cut out the suede sole and punctured the holes around with a utility knife.

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Here is a more detailed picture showing how we measured the suede sole.  We knew we had to account for the fact that the stitches crocheted into the suede would pull upwards so we cut the suede sole a little bit bigger than the actual size of the crocheted sole.  The inner edge is the actual size of the crocheted sole, and we added 0.5 cm all around for our suede sole.  The slits were made close to the inner edge.  It was somewhat difficult wiggling my crochet hook into the slits when crocheting around but it was definitely possible and I was so excited to start the upper boot!

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 We ended up using the same white Patons yarn as we loved how it looked (Sidenote: After multiple wears, Myla’s boots have pilled and fuzzed up a bit.  You could experiment with different yarns in case you don’t want them to fuzz up as much!).  In the end, I was able to crochet two pairs of loop boots with two skeins of the white yarn!  After completing the first round of the upper shoe, this is what we had!  We loved how it was looking already :)

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You could add some faux fur or fur to the bottom of the boot for some added warmth and comfort!  We glued the fur to the suede and then I continued crocheting the upper shoe.

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After following the exact same pattern from here on in, these were our finished boots!  We decided to go for some pretty gold buttons for this pair!  Aren’t they beautiful?

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Here is a picture showing the difference between the crocheted yarn sole and the suede sole!

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I was incredibly excited to have Myla try them on and walk around our hardwood floor!  Much to my delight, she walked around with no problem at all….no slipping or sliding as the suede sole provided her with plenty of grip!

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She was pretty happy to wear them too!  I love her sweet smile :)

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The shaggy, loopy look of the boots are absolutely adorable!  She always gets compliments whenever she wears them, and I can’t help but smile when people ask where I bought them and I get to say that I made them :)  I never would have imagined that I would be able to crochet my daughter such functional, luxurious, and stylish boots a few years ago, and it’s amazing having her wear something I crocheted for her with so much love!

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We used to take monthly family photoshoots up until Myla turned 1, so it was interesting trying to plan this shoot since Myla can walk so well now!  Gone are the non-mobile days when she would stay wherever we plopped her down!  And so, we did some of our favourite activities, like playing with bubbles!

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We also did some reading (love the beautiful “Little Miss Austen” books)!

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And some fun puzzles :)

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If you’re interested in the beautiful prints that we’re wearing, check out Vonbon, a children’s line based in Vancouver, Canada.  They specialize in organic cotton items (e.g. cowls, leggings, blankets, hats, bib bandanas, and headbands) that are all designed and handmade in Canada with gorgeous, sophisticated colour palettes.  I’ve had the pleasure of connecting with Vonbon’s creator Jen (who started the company with her sister Kristin) and it’s been wonderful getting to know another handmade artisan who is so passionate about her craft and what she does!

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[On MylaPolkadoto shirt: H&M, Gray Antler Leggings & Blush Triangle Infinity Cowl: Vonbon.  On me: Cape: Aritzia, Leggings: American Eagle Outfitters, Gray Antler Cowl: Vonbon]

We had to include this hilarious picture of Myla posing by the wall as I was blowing bubbles- she is a born model, haha :)  Myla photobombed our last photoshoot for the “Cabled Wrist Warmers" but this time she had the whole stage to herself!

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 I hope you enjoyed reading about our adventures in making these boots and also learned about some options on how to make your own crocheted slippers or boots non-slip by adding a suede sole!  I really enjoyed crocheting them and am so delighted with how they turned out!  You can purchase the toddler pattern for these loop boots HERE.  

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Kris and Lorin of “Two Girls Patterns" have partnered with me to offer a GIVEAWAY [now CLOSED- congrats “Pinkrebunny”!]!  One of my readers will win a FREE pattern from their lovely shop!  There are two ways to enter: please visit their Etsy store HERE and browse through their patterns.  Then, leave a comment below on my blog and/or on my Facebook page here (must be a follower of “All About Ami”) stating which pattern you would most like to win!  I’d love to hear what you think about our boots too and if you’ve tried making your crocheted footwear non-slip!  This contest is open worldwide and will close on Sunday, January 26th at 8 PM, MST.  If you are under 18, please ask your parents’ permission before entering.  Also, in case anyone is interested, Kris and Lorin allow people to sell their finished products made from their patterns as long as credit for the original design is given to them in the listing!  If you are interested in purchasing completed loop boots for your own child or as gifts, you can check Etsy as I’ve seen them being sold there!  Thank you for reading, and happy browsing and crocheting!

Sneak peek of upcoming blog post: Cabled Wrist Warmers (free pattern by Julee Reeves)

Sneak peek of upcoming blog post: Cabled Wrist Warmers (free pattern by Julee Reeves)

Round Shell Stitch Cowl

After designing my “Buttoned Shell Stitch Cowl" from last week (see HERE), I wanted to try making another version that was worked in the round without a button!  I really love the shell stitch as it gives such a beautiful and elegant look, and it is extremely easy to do since it simply consists of four double crochets and a chain 1 in between!  This pattern works up really quickly and all you need are two skeins of yarn and a 10 mm hook!  In this case, I used “Loops & Threads Cozy Wool" [super bulky weight (6)] in "Spearmint" to make a "Round Shell Stitch Cowl" for a friend!  

Unlike the Buttoned Shell Stitch Cowl which is crocheted in rows (turning after each row), this cowl is crocheted in rounds, and thus after doing your initial chains, you must slip stitch to the first chain to form a circle.  Then you work your shell stitches all around!

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Once you complete your last shell stitch of the round, you will approach the first shell stitch that you created at the beginning.  To close the round, you will slip stitch to the top of the initial chain 3 that you crocheted at the very beginning of Round 1.    

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Then you will slip stitch into the next stitch….

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And finally you will do another slip stitch into the Chain 1 space!  This is where you will work your shell stitch!

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You will work your shell stitch into each chain 1 space around so that the shell stitches are stacked ontop of one another, NOT into the space between the shell stitches (which would result in staggered shell stitches).  

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After completing this pattern for 13 rounds and using up two skeins of yarn, your “Round Shell Stitch Cowl” will be complete!  Doesn’t it look gorgeous with its delicate and pretty design?

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This pattern works up really quickly and the result is so beautiful!

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This is the finished spearmint “Round Shell Stitch Cowl" that I made for our friend for a gift exchange!

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Here is the pattern for my “Round Shell Stitch Cowl" (worked in rounds):

Chain 48.  Join with slip stitch to first chain, being careful not to twist the chain.

Round 1: Chain 3 (this counts as first double crochet), dc in same stitch, ch 1, 2 dc in same stitch.  *Skip 3 ch, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch*, repeat from * to end.  Slip stitch to top of initial chain 3 (12 shells [each shell made of total 4 dc and ch 1]).

Round 2-13: Slip stitch into next stitch, then slip stitch into Ch 1 space.  Chain 3, dc in same space, ch 1, 2 dc in same space.  *2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc* in each ch 1 space around.  Slip stitch to top of initial chain 3 (12 shells).

Finish off and weave in ends.

{Dimensions: 15.5” long, 13.5” wide, diameter: 28” around}

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Of course, I had to make one for myself so that I could show you what the finished product looks like when worn!  I really love white as I think it looks so crisp and stunning in the winter (just like my white Pom Pom Beanie!), so I used “Loops & Threads Cozy Wool" in "Fleece" to make my cowl!

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This cowl feels very luxurious and warm!  

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The elegant shell stitches help give this cowl such great texture and design :)

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I hoped you enjoyed reading about this other option on how to crochet a Shell Stitch Cowl!  If you haven’t already checked out my “Buttoned Shell Stitch Cowl" post, read all about it and see plenty of pics HERE!  Which style do you prefer?  

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Thank you for already sharing your “Buttoned Shell Stitch Cowl” pics with me- you all are so quick at making my designs, and I really appreciate your enthusiasm and warm response!  Keep sending me your pics on my Facebook page, Twitter (@AllAboutAmi), and Instagram (@AllAboutAmi, #AllAboutAmi)!  Can’t believe Christmas is right around the corner!!!  Many blessings to you and your loved ones! 

Sneak peek of upcoming blog post & free pattern: Round Shell Stitch Cowl

Sneak peek of upcoming blog post & free pattern: Round Shell Stitch Cowl

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